The British Army and Everest have been intertwined since long before the remarkable exploits of 1953; surveying, attempting and admiring the vast slopes that lead to the roof of the World.
The team descending across Everest’s summit ridge at dawn.
Expedition 2IC watching the sunrise from Everest’s summit.
Expedition leader and Sherpa rest below Everest’s summit.
Expedition leader holding the Army Adventurous Training Group pennant on Everest’s summit.
One hundred years after Lieutenant George Mallory vanished above the clouds, the challenge remains ever gritty, demanding, and breathless.
Earlier this year, a small team of Parachute Regiment officers and soldiers reaffirmed the Army’s relationship with the mountain, as they stood together on the summit dome.
Deep-rooted in our history, Adventurous Training, especially at this level, is an exceptionally powerful tool for the development of our people.
It was a fitting end to five years of training, delayed by the global pandemic. The dream to return to Everest, with soldiers afforded the training and resources to achieve something amazing, had become a wonderful reality.
The month-long expedition first saw the team faced with 60-70mph winds on Everest’s vast slopes, forcing them to turn around just short of their goal.
Resting for a few days, they retraced their steps, climbing back to the high camps for the second and successful attempt. Carrying their own supplies and moving at night, they avoided large commercial teams, and had the mountain largely to themselves.
The team crept through vast crevasse fields and scaled steep slopes illuminated by their headtorches, whilst the rest of the mountain slept.
Movement had to be fast, stopping only to rest during the day avoiding the blistering heat of the Himalayan sunshine. Utterly acclimatised after two weeks above 6500m, the team stormed back through the Icefall.
Expedition leader, Major Gethin Davies, said:
“Everest’s physical demands, its cognitive stretch, and the necessary requirement for leadership and teamwork is unmatched by anything outside the most demanding operations.
To get so close on the first attempt, and then return within a week is unheard of amongst western climbers.
“Deep-rooted in our history, Adventurous Training, especially at this level, is an exceptionally powerful tool for the development of our people.”
Sealed inside warm sleeping bags, the risk of not waking from deep sleep was very real and the soldiers had to stay constantly aware of the need to escape if required.
As the days and nights progressed, the routine was utterly simple; eat, drink, and not overthink the physical challenge that still lay ahead.
Keen to stay in front of any teams hidden amongst the surviving tents of the South Col, the team broke cover just before 18:00 to begin what felt like the longest of nights.
Ascending the lower slopes to Everest’s balcony as the sun set, the team stayed close, systematically taking a rest after each 20-step exertion, as darkness descended, and the temperature dipped below -30˚Celsius.
The savage winds of previous nights had blasted the route ahead, with the ropes disappearing under deep snow.
Traversing to the South Summit’s last face, the team broke trail on extremely steep terrain. Stumbling, slipping and causing small slides, with adrenalin racing through tired bodies, no one was able to hear the expletives, muttered under the masks, which were lost amongst the winds.
Approaching the dark summit, the bright colours of Tibetan prayer flags beckoned the team for the last few steps. The realisation of the moment was overwhelming, the soldiers grasped one another, and shared muffled celebrations; smiles were painful as frozen saliva snapped around mouths.
The team reached the summit at 3:51am, under a full moon, on 23rd May this year, seven years after the last Army team, and exactly a century since the first Army officer, Lieutenant Mallory, probably made it.
Apart from kinetic operations, this is a true demonstration of how good our very best soldiers are.
Major Davies added:
“To get so close on the first attempt, and then return within a week is unheard of amongst western climbers.
“The strength of our soldiers to do so is testament to the quality of our people; acutely aware of how to recover, pace, and summon the strength to push against overwhelming adversity.
“Apart from kinetic operations, this is a true demonstration of how good our very best soldiers are.”
No one conquers Everest. Those who get to stand atop are lucky to have been granted safe passage; the greatest privilege of all is simply to see the World from such a unique perspective, when even the biggest mountains on the planet seem small.
Our soldiers and officers who climbed Everest should remain eternally proud of their immense efforts and impeccable conduct amongst the harshest conditions, high above the clouds.
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